KAMOSHIKA CIDRE

Last Updated: 21 September, 2024

Kamoshika Cidre in Ina City, Nagano Prefecture, is well known for being one of the winningest cideries in Japan. Since its start in 2016, they have racked up accolade after accolade, including a hat-trick Best Sweet Cider, Best Japanese Cider, and Platinum trophies at last year’s Fuji Cider Challenge.

The man behind Kamoshika’s success is Kouhei Irikura, a Tokyo native but one with roots in Nagano, considered by many to be one of the best at his craft. While he poses a large and imposing figure, we found Mr. Irikura to be an exceptionally kind and generous person, and spent a day at his cidery talking about his past, present, and future.

Life before cidermaking “began” after graduating university in Kanagawa Prefecture, where Mr. Irikura worked as a salaryman until he was 25. When his parents one day opened up a nursing home in Tokyo, he decided to leave his job to help them and did so for seven years until the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011. 

During the recovery, Kouhei repeatedly heard people deliberating how important farming and agriculture was, and that both inspired and persuaded him to want to do something related to those fields.

At the age of 32, he decided to enter a brewing school in Ota-ku, Tokyo, and studied making a range of alcoholic beverages including beer, wine, nihonshu (sake), shōchū (a Japanese distilled hard liquor), and yes, even cider. “Basically everything,” Mr. Irikura says.

When he finally graduated, Kouhei moved to Nagano to train at and work for a winery that was in need of staff, but his decision to relocate was likewise prompted by the close connection he felt with his grandmother, who also lived in the prefecture. While at the winery, he received invaluable practical hands-on experience making cider.

Eventually, Kouhei obtained his brewing license and went on to launch Kamoshika Cidre, with their first releases incidentally taking silver and gold medals at the 2017 Fuji Cider Challenge. (His being the sole Japanese cider to receive a gold medal that year). It’s interesting to note that unlike most Japanese cider brands that were spawned by an apple farm or winery, Kamoshika Cidre is arguably one of the first, if not the first, to distinguish itself as a cidery by adopting the word “cidre” as part of its business name.

Kamoshika’s ciders are undeniably influenced by French sparkling wines. One only has to read the label of its flagship brand, La Saison, and its range of Brut, Doux, and even La Méthode Ancestrale styles.

Méthode Ancestrale (Ancestral Method), is regarded as the oldest known approach to creating sparkling wine. The process involves pausing primary fermentation about half-way through with secondary fermentation occurring in the bottle. Traditionally no sugar is added to kick-start the secondary fermentation, but Mr. Irikura revealed that he does sometimes. 

The Ancestral Method is popular because it is less expensive than more modern techniques, but it is also notoriously risky and difficult to control. That could be why more cidermakers choose the latter. The fact that Kamoshika Cidre takes home awards every year is further testament to Kouhei’s talent and skill.

Altogether, Kamoshika produces about 13 different types of drinks including a rosé, pear cider, and strawberry and apple wines. When asked about his production volumes, Mr. Irikura stated that he made about 6000 liters of cider his first year. That number went up to 8000 liters in 2017 and then up to 11,000 liters in 2018. Last year, Kamoshika Cidre yielded an impressive 20,000 liters and this year, Kouhei expects to hit the 30,000 liter mark. 

That’s quite a feat when one considers the size of his operations, a modest almost 500m² in size across two rooms (the second having finished being built late last year), with all of the ciders being crafted among the 30 Flextanks he owns, ranging in capacity for a total of 10,000 liters.

Kouhei is assisted by two full-time and two part-time workers. When we met them, most were busy fulfilling orders – including the boss. We were also a bit surprised to learn that the majority of Kamoshika’s off-premise sales are in Nagano with less than a handful outside the prefecture. The rest of their sales take place online and at local sake, beer, and wine events.

Another bigger surprise was to discover that the bulk of the ciders he makes isn’t for himself but for other customers. Mr. Irikura told us he was contacted as early as his second year by outside businesses wanting him to make cider for them. While that might seem like a distraction to some, Kouhei welcomed the challenge as it meant he could experiment using apples he might otherwise not use. 

Touring the warehouse where his apples are kept, he rattled a list of varieties he often incorporates into his recipes: Jonathan, Akibae, Shinano Gold, Shinano Sweet, Shinano Red, Virginia Crab, Maypole, Honey Rouge, Greensleeves, and on and on.

We asked Mr. Irikura about his cidermaking philosophy, to which he replied without hesitation, “To make the cleanest products possible and let the natural freshness of the apples do their thing. Also, use the cleanest equipment and ingredients as possible. Pay attention to and be mindful about sanitation.”

Despite the varying degrees of accomplishment, Kamoshika Cidre is still growing and looking to expand. At the time of our interview in the fall of 2019, construction of a 500 liter distillery was under way. Upon completion, expected in April, Kouhei intends to add apple brandy and other liqueurs to their range of offerings.

Visitors now might be a little disappointed as cidery tours aren’t currently very feasible (although farm tours are if an appointment is made in advance), as well as the lack of a functioning tasting room, but there are plans for a future larger warehouse and nearby cafeteria, so who knows what the future holds?

Nevertheless, a trip out to Ina City isn’t rewardless. The nature and scenery is breathtaking, and after our interview, Mr. Irikura took us to a local restaurant (Kurabe Continental Delicatessen) that served an out-of-this-world galette made from cider batter.

But definitely keep your eyes and ears open for Kamoshika Cidre, as there is no doubt they’ll continue making news and breaking records and original ground. Above all, get yourself a bottle or two of their exquisite cider and experience some of the most complex and well made in the country.